Thursday, February 27, 2014

Volcán Tajumulco: El punto más alto

The last adventure to report was 2 weekends ago. Nicole, myself and some other friends in town, piled into a chicken bus (school bus decked out with metallic paint, bursting out the windows with local commuters) and rode to Xela to climb the tallest point in Central America, Volcán Tajumulco. The chicken bus transfers took me back to my bus commuting days in Kathmandu….the drivers leaning out the windows shouting their destination. You just hope that you read the lips of your driver correctly before piling into a 2 person seat, with somehow 5 people figured like a jigsaw puzzle…balancing on one another’s limbs and knees. It is truly a local experience! That night there was a pre-trip meeting in which group gear was randomly distributed.  Somehow I managed to get "stuck" with a six person tent, while the grown men in the group were assigned a bag of pasta or hot cocoa mix. But hey, what good is a 70 liter pack if it's not ripping at the seams!?  We woke up at 4 am Saturday morning to catch yet 3 more chicken busses with the guides and trekking group before reaching the trailhead of Tajumulco.

and off we go….

Cuidado con mi mochila! 

Tajumulco hidden in the clouds behind us 


at the trailhead 


We climbed and climbed, stopping every few hours for incredible Guatemalan spiced trail mix, and cracker snacks, provided to us by our amazing volunteer guides! After a few hours the views opened up and it truly felt like we were on top of the world. We camped close to the summit and played cards around the fire, sipping on hot cocoa, attempting to converse among the 4 languages represented (English, Spanish, French and Swedish). Ahhh there is just something so comforting about being huddled around a campfire with strangers, colder than all get out, but so content and satisfied to be in the company of new friends in such a peaceful place.








late night card tournament




The next morning we woke up at 3:30 to make the final ascent, just under 14,000 ft., to watch the sunrise from truly the tallest point in Central America. It was spectacular! Yes the coldest I have been in a long time, but we sat, bundled in our billion layers, watching the clouds literally roll before our eyes, changing from an ominous black of the night sky, to a vibrant orange and soft pink, revealing the blazing sun and a new day. The 45 minutes on the summit were some of the most spiritual, humbling AND freezing moments of my life.




watching the clouds drop into the abyss of Guate below




our Spanish friends bundled up in sleeping bags on the top









We made the final ascent, traversing the ridge of the volcano and made our way home back to Pana 3 chicken bus rides later….and that was just a weekend from work. I felt like I had been gone for a week!








I’m loving and appreciating the learning opportunities everyday in the classroom as well as the adventure and cultural experiences I gain by leaving town on the weekends. God is great, life is good, and Guatemala is full of color and beauty!

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Bomberitos, Comida y Familia! Viviendo como un local!

Living like a local…the phrase had meaning back in September when I began haggling prices, learned the names of tienda owners and tuk tuk drivers, and when my most visited café remembered my drink order. But having lived in this town 6 months now, this phrase has taken a whole new form. Let me begin with an event I was honored to attend a few weeks back.

One of my students, Kevin, has been attending a Bomberito (little fire fighter) course the past 5 months, every Saturday. The volunteer firefighters of Panajachel teach the kids everything from how to march single file down the Santander in unison, to how to effectively put out a raging car fire using the hoses and your teammates. Every Monday Kevin would come to class with new stories about what adventures the bomberitos went on this past weekend. A few Saturdays ago, was his official graduation from the program. As is the case with most celebrations in town, this one began with a desfile (parade) down the main street. The punctual teachers / Americans that we are, Emily and I were on the street ready for the parade at 9:00 am sharp!! Well about 10:00 the fire truck rolls up and the kids pile out in full uniform (badges, boots and all). The group of Bomberitos then marched up the Santander (about a ¾ mile long street) in the blazing heat, in perfect unison. I told Kevin later, I need his help teaching all of our classmates what it means to really “line up” after recess. Once we reached the fire station, each student was called up, given a diploma, and saluted the captains and their families in gratitude. After the ceremony the audience filed out into the backyard where the firefighters lit a small doghouse on fire. The bomberitos lined up, hose in hand, and extinguished the fire. The ceremony ended with the kids running in circles around the scene, being sprayed with a fire hose. It was  truly a local event….Emily and I were definitely the only Canches (white people) there. Kevin’s mom, Esthela, is a fellow teacher at AMA, so it was also really neat to spend the afternoon with her family. 

Esthela and her beautiful daughter

Kevin marching up Santander


Waiting to receive their diplomas

Such an awesome family! 








Kevin and little brother, Efran (PreK student at AMA)

Proud teacher moment!!! GOO Kevin! 


The next local living experience I had this past month was the birthday celebration of one of our local friends. I’ve experienced elementary aged birthdays many times at school…and they are no joke! The parents ask the teacher if it would be ok if they brought a snack for the students during recess for their son or daughter’s birthday.  OF COURSE, we respond, FAMILIES ARE ALWAYS WELCOME , thinking they would come with cupcakes or cookies to share. Well, we learned quickly that this actually means the whole family comes (I’m talking aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents) with a cake the size of a large Pagliacci pizza, and massive piñata. The party rarely lasts under an hour….and often cuts into 2 class periods…but hey, these people know how to celebrate! Well this birthday was celebrating our friend, Pin, turning 21. Emily and I planned a surprise gathering with all of his friends, and about 20 of us took over a hotel lobby space, with a cake and food for the month! We had impromptu karaoke and a quite the dance floor…oh did I mention it was a Tuesday night!

Birthday boy, Pin


                                                                                   Killing it at Karaoke!



Invited by one of my local friend’s mom, I have been attending weekly Zumb a lessons with the locals. I’ve wondered since the start of the year when all of the women in this town let lose. Majority of the town’s men are out and about on the weekends at the local bars and clubs, but the women stay home with the children…its cultural. I’m not one to judge, but the women here work harder than any other indivudals, and by age 16 they are considered grown, expected to work and play a responsible role in their household and that of their spouse. When do they let their hair down, and have fun?!!!! Well I’ve found the answer folks….Zumba class!!!! I’ve loved this local gathering, women of all ages. Women whom I’ve only seen in traje (traditional clothing) selling on the streets, show up in sweatpants and tennis shoes, to shake their booties and sway their arms in this lady dance party workout, we call Zumba! It’s been a highlight of my week!

I’ve also been taken in, like a daughter, by a number of families in town. All fall I bought lunch at school almost everyday. Well the past 2 weeks I’ve been provided with at least one and sometimes TWO homemade lunches by students’ moms or my local friends’ moms. I used to budget my meals, and eat less for lunch just so I would have leftovers for dinner. Now I have choices, spaghetti or French toast and eggs, sushi or a ham and cheese croissant! The generosity is inspiring. I consider myself a giving person but one of these moms, brings me breakfast leftovers from the hotel she works at almost EVERY day! That means, she walks 20 minutes from her work to my school and back every single day!!!! If I wasn’t motivated to learn Spanish already, having the right vocabulary to express my gratitude for these incredible acts of kindness is a real goal of mine! I am so so blessed.


One of the things I miss most about teaching in the states is having the language to really connect and establish relationships with the families of my students. Educating a child effectively is a team effort, teachers and parents should work with common goals, enforcing the same ideals empowering the student to achieve what he/she is truly capable of. It’s been tough, only having the Spanish vocabulary to exchange a polity greeting and the small talk conversational topics. A smile, kiss on the cheek and gracias, adios can only get you so far. Well I have one student that is very high needs. I work with him every week to harness his overwhelming energy to academics or things he is passionate about. His mom comes to lunch everyday and I have so much I want to say to her, but she’s come across pretty cold thus far, and even with translation help, I never felt like our conversations were very effective. Well this past week she brought me a bag of homemade bagels from their family run restaurant. It meant more than I can even express. I took it as almost a peace offering, sign of gratitude, or the initial step to a potential team effort. I am so grateful!

Lake Atitlan - feels like home

Owls in Flight - Guate style.

This past month has been exciting and different in that long time friend and fellow Overlake Owl of class of ’08, Nicole Allen, joined us all in Pana for about a month. She is volunteering at an orphanage run by an AMA family and has jumped right into the Pana social circle. She has been sure to keep me busy, heading out on adventures every weekend it was possible, and seeing sites I’ve been meaning to visit.

The first weekend she was here, we took a trip to Xela, a bigger city than Pana complete with McDonald’s! Lucky us, we found some locals to show us to one of the most sacred lakes in Guatemala. Laguna Chikibal is a crater lake that was formed in the crater of Volcán Chikibal. The crater opened up to a Mayan religious display, with stopping point reserved for a Nawal of the Mayan calendar. It was both a time to be in nature, while experiencing a spiritual Saturday afternoon service with the local Mayan people.

the truck ride up to the trailhead

Will, Jorge, Nicole and Joe






Laguna Chikibal









A well earned lunch after a great hike


A few photos from our time spend in Xela:
loving new street foods



The next weekend, Nicole dragged me up San Pedro Volcano again, with some of our Pana friends. I can feel myself dwindling out of shape, as the hike in October with my dad was much more manageable than this past one…too much pollo, pan y café (chicken, bread and coffee). But it’s been truly special sharing these Guatemalan experiences with a friend from my past life!




Pin, Nicole, Austin, Alejandro 




Are we there yet…. 


Don't make me go annnny further!!!! Estoy muy cansado! 

success!

wore him out

Overlake Class of '08!! 

Cousinly love


While these Overlake Owl adventures were incredible, I was most grateful for the fellow Seattlite presence on Sunday February 2nd.  Want to talk about epic international experiences, try being 1 of 2 Hawk fans among a sea of Guatemalan and visiting Broncos fans huddled together around a small, single television, in the lobby of a church gathering space. For some reason all of the American Football fans in Pana are hardcore 49er fans....so with the Hawks being the reason their favored team was not playing in the Superbowl, let’s just say we didn’t feel very welcomed. Not to mention, everyone in the room was translating Seahawks to pajaritos (little birds)….just to make us feel that much better. Ya we were set up for success… the little birds vs. the broncos. But nachos, after burrito, after limondada, we shoved our mouths in anticipation for the game to begin. Well, as most of your know, it wasn’t much of a game at all, and once that became apparent, the fans slowly started dispersing…they had better things to do than watch American football with a pair of overly excited, white girls cheering on their home town! But Nicole and I held our own, and have been on a Seattle high since then, strutting the main street of Pana with pride…where our defeat means absolutely nothing.


12th man spotted on Lake Atitlan 


I brought a Seahawks shirt back from the states for Don Alejandro, the guard of our school, and while he had never even heard of the Seattle Seahaws, as instructed by me the Friday before the Superbowl, he wore his shirt with pride. He rocked that green and blue with pride…like a champ, strolling the school occasionally throwing his arms in the air, declaring “Champion!”